The Harwood Arms

The Harwood Arms website succinctly sums up our second one-star Michelin restaurant. "The idea is to provide Londoners with a really relaxed venue for eating the finest British produce, cooked amazingly well, accompanied by excellent beer and wine at a great price. Please remember that even though we serve fabulous food, we are still a pub and there is a lively, friendly atmosphere."

This "lively, friendly" restaurant in the south London suburbs indeed looked like a pub (albeit an upscale one) with its large windows, cream walls, widely spaced wooden tables and large bar offering ales on tap. A mounted deer’s head reminded diners that game was their specialty.

Our Scottish waiter was appropriately sarcastic, knowledgeable and helpful. He described the blackboard specials, brought us our wine, and then the fun began.

Actually, the fun had to wait on Marlene's pork shoulder starter, our only weak dish of the evening; it reminded us of dried-out brisket. Tableside shaved black truffles didn't help; they were tasteless.

Huntsham Court Farm pork shoulder with celeriac, runner beans and Wiltshire truffle

My roast partridge starter was fantastic. The large breast was tender, moist and flavorful. A crostini spread with creamed livers was equally good. And while the game tea tasted like gravy (what would one expect?), it was a nice addition.

Roast Berkshire partridge with salmi, creamed livers and game tea

Marlene and Susan split the neck of lamb for two, one of the blackboard specials. It was spectacular. The lamb meat fell off the neck; it was tender and delicious. The large bowl of crispy garlic potatoes were to-die-for; Gary and I pinched more than our share. The traditional rosemary curd and roasted artichokes completed this picture perfect dish.

Slow cooked neck of lamb for two, with crispy garlic potatoes, rosemary curd and baby artichokes

I have to admit I was jealous when I saw Marlene and Susan's neck of lamb come out, but my deer was excellent; it was appropriately rich and gamey. The accompanying mushrooms and potatoes were very good, although they couldn't compete with the crispy garlic potatoes across the table.

Plate of Fallow deer with celeriac and smoked onion

Marlene and I didn't share a dessert on this occasion either; they looked too good. Marlene had a yummy malt crème brûlée with coffee ice cream, and I had the refreshing blackboard apple special in honor of Apple Day, which had been celebrated the day before.

Burnt malt cream with camp coffee ice cream and caramel dodgers

Poached and fresh heritage apples, with mead and set cream

The Harwood Arms was indeed "lively" and "friendly," and the food (except for the pork shoulder) was indeed "fabulous." We highly recommend it.

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