There were storms in St. Louis Sunday morning, but when our American Airlines flight arrived in New York City, fifteen minutes ahead of our 4:15 pm scheduled arrival time, the weather was perfect — sunny, mid seventies and low humidity. After a quick taxi ride to our 63rd and 2nd apartment, we unpacked, made trips to the Hot & Crusty (for bagels) and Duane Reade, and then changed for dinner. Our dinner reservation was a sixty-block taxi ride down 2nd avenue to Great Jones Street, at Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria.
This sister establishment to Il Buco, which is around the block on Bond Street, is a combination grocery store and restaurant. We walked through a front room offering salumi, cheeses, freshly baked bread, and imported oils and vinegar for sale, and down a few steps to a rustic lower-level dining room.
The hostess seated us at the far end of a long communal table, with a perfect view of the bustling kitchen.
We had done our homework in advance and had no trouble navigating the enticing menu. We started with a wonderful 2009 Pietracupa Aglianico Quirico and an assortment of salumi.
2009 Pietracupa Aglianico Quirico
Assortment of salumi — culatello, prosciutto, mortadella, picante, toscano According to the menu, the salumi is prepared in house with pigs raised hormone and antibiotic free. It was delicious. The ribbons of cured meat disappeared quickly. There were six pastas to choose from as a first course. We shared the spaghetti with bottarga di muggine.
Spaghetti with bottarga di muggine The gray mullet roe infused the pasta with a salty richness that was addictive. We could have devoured a second order. But we didn't. There were five second courses on the menu. We chose the house special — the roasted short ribs for two.
Roasted Short Ribs (for 2) with castelveltrano olives, celery, walnuts, horseradish The brined short ribs are rubbed with coriander seeds and green and black peppercorns, then allowed to sit overnight before being slowly roasted. Before service, the meat is crisped in a wood-burning oven. The meat literally falls off the bone. It was incredible. The crisp spiced crust meshed perfectly with the sweet fatty beef. (Mom: Think the best brisket you've ever had without the Lipton onion soup.) Our friendly waiter offered dessert, but we were stuffed. We told him we had to pace ourselves for our gastronomic week ahead. We also told him we would return.
Friendly waiter Dan We attempted to walk the sixty blocks back up 2nd avenue to our apartment, but two-thirds of the way there, Marlene had a shoe malfunction. We took a taxi the rest of the way. Better shoes tomorrow. Copyright © 2014 TwoForTheTable.com |
